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Originally Posted by _Lutz_
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Very nice you did both, it looks definitely like some issue with themes, not some missing library.
See if there are more settings regarding that.
I.e. on cinnamon i can set default fonts + sizes, theme for window borders, mouse pointer, controls, desktop elements separately (all set to adwaita). And try disable all effects, all that visual candy.
Edit: I just read that with new gnome they added a new adwaita theme, so it could well be there are problems with it. Try to get some older theme, maybe you can download the old adwaita and use it on fedora 30 for a test.